We set out to explore Norman’s Cay by foot. Armed with water jugs, we headed to the ex drug-lord’s house’s ruins because we’d heard tell about a water cistern there. We found the house still standing and covered in sailors grafitti. Visiting sailors over the years have left their names and boat names on the walls all over the structure. It’s an eerie space with a haunted feel. I’m sure there are bullet holes in the walls somewhere.

The cistern on Norman's Cay

We found the cistern, and the water was cool and fresh. The roof of the house collects in a gutter that fills the cistern. Two wee frogs were chirping happily inside. We dove the bucket down into the moist echoing cavern and hauled fresh water to fill our containers. Not having a big boat that can make drinking water from sea water, we get to forage with buckets in hand in crazy places like this.

The view from the drug-lord's old house

The views from up here are amazing though. In its day, this place must have been stunning.

After we had our fill of the house and its strange energy, we went exploring along the beach for coconuts. We found even more ruins. This time is was houses of what used to be the Norman’s Cay Club. There were four huge houses right on the beach with lovely grounds and trees that give shade. Each is falling into disintegration and is a complete and utter shame. What a special place, and how sad it is that no one wants to make use of it and maintain it!

The abandoned Norman's Cay beach club

Here we found just two coconut palms that actually had decent coconuts on them. Maybe it’s too dry here now, or maybe all the cruisers have taken the coconuts, but there were only two to be found anywhere, and they were 20 feet up! I really wanted them and climbed up with one thing on my mind. Success! Two nice sweet green coconuts absolutely full of water! Too bad I skinned my feet a bit on the sharp bark. I guess the native boys have leathery soles.

Capt'n K foraging for coconuts

We’d had our fill of the ghost town that is the south end of Norman’s Cay, so we went back to Wee Happy, our Albin Vega sailboat, and brought her around to the south anchorage where s/v Naked Lady was resting at anchor. The anchorage is just off of a cut that leads connects the Exuma sound (deep ocean) with the Exuma banks (shallow water), so there is a swift current that reverses with the tide change. We set two anchors to hold us against each current direction and marveled at the amazing glowing blues that surrounded us on all sides.

A group of sailboats arrived just after us and crowded in just on top of us. It’s really annoying that with so much damn space all around, someone will decide to drop their anchor right up your nose or ass. What the hell!? Give some space please!!! If anyone drags anchor, there’s not much time or space to react, let alone giving each other some privacy in all this huge expanse out here!

Regardless, we went to politely socialize with the other cruisers on an idyllic little island with a single palm tree and powder fine sand. Everyone brought dinner and drinks for a “happy hour” and we got to know Jimi and Mimi from s/v ExtaSea (left), Rick and Audrey from s/v Naked Lady (center) and Espin and Barbara from s/v Mini Pearl (right).

The norman's Cay Family