Cave Magic

Lala in Thunderball Cave

In the last few days we have visited 3 caves. These caves are located in very tiny uninhabited islands, and to get inside of them you have to snorkel into an opening in the rock wall of the island into the cavern. The first two caves we went to were at a special place in the Land and Sea Park called “Rocky Dundas”. What a great name! This place is said to be a sacred site of the native Lucayan people that originally lived here. It does feel sacred. The cave felt like a cathedral, with high vaulted ceilings made of sculpted, richly colored stone. Light shone down in glimmering shafts through openings in the top. It made you want to sing praises to God.

Cave at Rocky Dundas

We went with our friends Mimi and Richard from s/v Maffick, who have been our travelling buddies since we found them in Norman’s Cay. They have been great to hang out with, easy going and fun. We took their 30 foot Gemini Catamaran over to the caves from our anchorage a few miles away, and fell in love with their boat. The caves at Rocky Dundas had great snorkeling all around it, with whole schools of fish and very impressive coral, including gigantic gold colored staghorn coral, which is looks like a Dr. Suess version of gigantic rack of elk horns. We also visited the “Sea Aquarium”, a small snorkeling area that is renowned for it’s friendly “herd” of Sargeant Major fish. These adorable fish have black and white zebra stripes, with yellow backs. The fish here at the Sea Aquarium were definitely friendly! As soon as we pulled up in our dinghy, we could see dozens of them surrounding the boat. As soon as we jumped in the water, they crowded all around us, as if to say “Welcome!! Where’s the food?!?” Apparently these fish have been fed by humans, and have come to welcome our visits. It was such a delight to swim in such close proximity to these little cuties completely surrounding you!

Sargeant Majors swimming with Lala

Then we moved on to Staniel Cay, where there is another famous cave called Thunderball Cave. This is where they filmed some James Bond movies, among others. It was absolutely spectacular. From the outside it doesn’t look like much, just another rocky tiny island. But you put your snorkel on your face, and your face in the water, and head for a small opening in the rock. Another group of friendly Sargeant Major fish greet you at the entrance. Larger fish lurk in holes along the rock which are lined with crazy coral, some which appear to be actually glowing blue light. A strong current pushes you as you approach the narrow entrance, and you force your way through, fish passing you on all sides. And then the cave opens up, and it takes your breath away. Light comes through, penetrating through the water and casting enchanting shadows. You don’t know whether to look up or down, as below the surface is an entire world of coral and magnificent sea creatures, and above is a vaulted cathedral like dome. Here is a small glimpse:

I definitely have a new appreciation for the value of coral reefs in creating a habitat for such a diverse array of wonderful life forms. The fish love their protection, and of course the food that they provide. There is a wonderful, peaceful community of fish living at each coral head, each fish doing it’s own job to keep the reef healthy and balanced. What a fine example they make for the rest of us striving to create community. Some of the major lessons I’ve learned from these fish are that the more outrageously colorful you are, the better. And stick with your kind, but mingle often with others. And don’t trust long legged creatures coming at you with spears.


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2 thoughts on “Cave Magic

  1. Colin

    Great stuff! Yvonne and I have been following your journey. We hope to make a similar trip this coming winter on our Vega, Isis. Cuba may also be an option. Are you finding fresh drinking water hard to come by on your travels? How much capacity do you have on board? Colin…

    Reply
    1. wh-admin Post author

      Hi Colin! Thanks so much for your comment! Wonderful to hear about another Vega. Where are you keeping her? I love the name: Isis. did you name her?

      Regarding water: it is sparse here in the Exumas, but easy enough if you plan for it. We have the 15 gallon tank in the v-berth of course, and we also carry about ten gallons in 1 gallon jugs that are easy to stow. Also a necessity is a solar camp shower! We foraged fresh water in a cistern on Norman’s Cay, but otherwise, we’ve had to buy water. It is usually 50 cents a gallon or so for reverse osmosis water at a marina. Not bad at all! Some of our cruising friends have given us water that they have made in their watermakers also. Still, we ran almost dry while cruising the land and sea park because there are no marinas there!

      So stay in touch and let us know about your boat!

      Reply

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